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Down
and Out in Paris and London
THE rue du Coq
d'Or, Paris, seven in the morning. A succession
of furious, choking yells from the street.
Madame Monce, who kept the little hotel opposite
mine, had come out on to the pavement to address
a lodger on the third floor. Her bare feet were
stuck into sabots and her grey hair was
streaming down.
MADAME MONCE: 'Salope! Salope! How many times
have I told you not to squash bugs on the
wallpaper? Do you think you've bought the hotel,
eh? Why can't you throw them out of the window
like everyone else? Putain! Salope!'
THE WOMAN ON THE THIRD FLOOR: 'Vache!'
Thereupon a whole variegated chorus of yells, as
windows were flung open on every side and half
the street joined in the quarrel. They shut up
abruptly ten minutes later, when a squadron of
cavalry rode past and people stopped shouting to
look at them.
I sketch this scene, just to convey something of
the spirit of the rue du Coq d'Or. Not that
quarrels were the only thing that happened there—but
still, we seldom got through the morning without
at least one outburst of this description.
Quarrels, and the desolate cries of street
hawkers, and the shouts of children chasing
orange-peel over the cobbles, and at night loud
singing and the sour reek of the refuse-carts,
made up the atmosphere of the street.
It was a very narrow street—a ravine of tall,
leprous houses, lurching towards one another in
queer attitudes, as though they had all been
frozen in the act of collapse. All the houses
were hotels and packed to the tiles with lodgers,
mostly Poles, Arabs and Italians. At the foot of
the hotels were tiny bistros, where you could be
drunk for the equivalent of a shilling. On
Saturday nights about a third of the male
population of the quarter was drunk. There was
fighting over women, and the Arab navvies who
lived in the cheapest hotels used to conduct
mysterious feuds, and fight them out with chairs
and occasionally revolvers. At night the
policemen would only come through the street two
together. It was a fairly rackety place. And yet
amid the noise and dirt lived the usual
respectable French shopkeepers, bakers and
laundresses and the like, keeping themselves to
themselves and quietly piling up small fortunes.
It was quite a representative Paris slum...
 1984
It was a bright cold day in April, and
the clocks were striking thirteen. Winston
Smith, his chin nuzzled into his breast in an
effort to escape the vile wind, slipped quickly
through the glass doors of Victory Mansions,
though not quickly enough to prevent a swirl of
gritty dust from entering along with him.
The hallway smelt of boiled cabbage and old rag
mats. At one end of it a coloured poster, too
large for indoor display, had been tacked to the
wall. It depicted simply an enormous face, more
than a metre wide: the face of a man of about
forty-five, with a heavy black moustache and
ruggedly handsome features. Winston made for the
stairs. It was no use trying the lift. Even at
the best of times it was seldom working, and at
present the electric current was cut off during
daylight hours. It was part of the economy drive
in preparation for Hate Week. The flat was seven
flights up, and Winston, who was thirty-nine and
had a varicose ulcer above his right ankle, went
slowly, resting several times on the way. On
each landing, opposite the lift-shaft, the
poster with the enormous face gazed from the
wall. It was one of those pictures which are so
contrived that the eyes follow you about when
you move. BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU, the
caption beneath it ran.
Inside the flat a fruity voice was reading out a
list of figures which had something to do with
the production of pig-iron. The voice came from
an oblong metal plaque like a dulled mirror
which formed part of the surface of the right-hand
wall. Winston turned a switch and the voice sank
somewhat, though the words were still
distinguishable. The instrument (the telescreen,
it was called) could be dimmed, but there was no
way of shutting it off completely. He moved over
to the window: a smallish, frail figure, the
meagreness of his body merely emphasized by the
blue overalls which were the uniform of the
party. His hair was very fair, his face
naturally sanguine, his skin roughened by coarse
soap and blunt razor blades and the cold of the
winter that had just ended...

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